The Headache

The Headache is anything but its namesake: an über-classic line with hands, fingers and a short, offwidth section.

Before undertaking, check at the vistor center as this climb has been subject to raptor closings in years past.

All belays are bolted.

Climb gets summer shade after 11 am.

P1 (.10b) The climb begins with two options: either a one inch or a three inch crack, both splitter. Pick one and jam beautiful cracks to the first short, 10b offwidth crux, which protects really well with a 3.5 Camalot.

P2 (5.9+ or easy 5.10) Pitch two goes at 5.9+ or easy 5.10, depending on your height. Cruise up and left from the belay, working through some great .9 terrain until you clip a good bolt on the "puzzle piece" before a splitter roof. Surmount the roof, then up more .9 to the second belay.

P3 Begins with some really fun, easy, lower-angled cracks and gets progressively more difficult as you near the chains. Save those green Camalots, ideally one for after the big peapod. The pitch ends on a large ledge, from which you rap off 60 meters to a hanging rap anchor that is below and to the left of the anchor atop pitch 2. Rap another 60 to the ground.

At minimum, two sets of cams from 3" to 3.5" (heavy on green and yellow camalots), a set of stoppers, 8 draws and 5 shoulder length slings.

All three belays are bolted with bomber bolts.

Bring two 60 meter ropes.