Swiss Edge

This route has been in the Ruckman guide which was updated from the original ascent. This is good fun climbing and the South Face Rappels have been added to enable descent with one 60m rope. It seemed far enough up there to justify carrying the weight of only one rope. I have heard favorable reports about this climb over the years from other visitors.

After arriving at the base of the West Arete (which should take about 3 hours from the trailhead...less with a really light load and if you are going just for the day)....

Pitch #1: Climb the crack on the arete up to a bolt and continue up past knobs to an obvious belay. 5.8.

Pitch #2: The terrain steepens past more enjoyable knobs passing some fixed pins and bolts to a belay at a small tree. 5.9

Pitch #3: Up the arete and then right around the edge to a right facing dihedral (thin) to a nice stance. 5.9+.

Pitch #4: Climb mostly on the right edge up to the top and a two bolt belay / rappel. 5.9.

It is nice to camp at tree line or a bit below where water is available. Then just a 15-20 minute hike to the Buttress. The Dylan routes can also be climbed on the descent...they are good climbs on patina requiring only QDs. The ledge at the base of these routes is actually a bit easier to attain via the rappels rather than from ground up! The Guardian is the large buttress sentry like formation on the south (left) at the transition in Big Willow Canyon as the trail becomes less steep and it is a sort of tree line area / alpine vegetation change.

Light. 8 QDs for mostly a bolt equipped climb. A few Camalots micro to #3 and a set of Nuts. Aside from the chain I lugged up to the top anchor, slings on the other rappels may need to be replaced. This place gets weather in the winter.