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Peak Mountain 3

The Today Show

FA James Crump
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Description

Start up Walter Funkite, pull the break, and head straight for the top.

Originally, this was done as a free solo by James Crump. Just about everyone topropes it now, and it is listed as a TR in a newer guidebook, but I have listed it in keeping with the FA.

If you want to lead this on gear, you can protect the move pulling the break (a #6 works), but there is no pro after that, so any fall 20' or so or more above that piece means cratering.

Location

At the base of News Wall, find Walter Funkite. The picture here should make locating Today Show easy. That's if you're actually going to lead it.

Otherwise, lead Funkite, No Sweat, or Sweat to the Funkite anchors, climb the easy mini-pitch to the top of News Wall, and walk left beneath a headwall to two hangers you can use to set a TR anchor. These anchors are not suitable for rappelling or TRing off directly.

Or approach News Wall from the top. The best way is to take the Echo Canyon Trail to its crest, ascend up the slabs to and past the Lunar Rocks and then cut over to the Backside and find an easy slab that takes one to a climber's trail that wanders across the top of Center Wall, News Wall, and part of the Shield. It is an easy but exposed walk to the anchors mentioned, but if that doesn't look good, it's possible to build a TR anchor and hang the masterpoint over the headwall.

Protection

Two anchor bolts or build a TR anchor from higher up.