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Zephyr's Stairway
Description
Wild 1st pitch with multiple cruxes: thin and balancy past the first bolt, then pinch a rail and pull down (not out!), clip the second bolt with a long runner and traverse left on huge huecos. 2nd crux is a mantle past the huecos then a thin flared crack leads to 4th bolt and crux (5.11-). Up and right to the 5th bolt at a bulge gets you to a wide crack then further right to a thin and steep layback corner for the final crux of the pitch. Using many techniques on this varied pitch will keep you engaged. Despite the bolts you still need a light rack on this pitch!2nd pitch is mostly OW and chimney with a bit of hands (5.9) FA Ivan Cross3rd pitch exits the left side of the ledge to a long right facing corner utilizing some big gear (5.9) belay on another pleasant ledge. FA Derek Fields4th pitch continues up the long corner (about 100ft) passing two large roofs (5.10)! 1 bolted added 1/2022.5th pitch is like none other. Climb easy terrain up from anchor to the imposing roof crack. This feature starts in a cave but the real climbing starts out horizontal hands with a down sloping lip. Then highly improbable climbing (5.10+)thru OW pod to fist crack with massive exposure leads you to summit.Rap each pitch with a 60m. The first rap overhangs so you might have to kick off and swing in to reach the anchors. Watch your ends on 2nd rap!
Location
South aspect, start is approx 30ft Left of Peter's Ladder. From the saddle between the Acropolis and Tisha traverse a narrow limestone ledge to the start or go lower and bust through the brush.
Protection
handful of Quick Draws on the first pitch plus a double set small to #4 and 1 #5, a few nuts and many runners. A #6 would not go unused but is not mandatory.
Routes in The Acropolis
- 4Zephyr's Stairway5.11-Trad