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Peak Mountain 3

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Description

This route wasn't in the book, but it's on the far right of the tower and is west-facing. Do a bouldery start off the small ledge, but it is easy to pre-clip the first bolt. Crank on good crimpers to gain the ramp - good luck being graceful - then continue up towards the anchors. This has fun and powerful climbing. I don't know what the official rating is, it felt like 11+ to me.

Location

Scramble up the hillside west of the tower and traverse out left onto the belay ledge. Anchor your belayer to the first bolt.

I did a top belay and then climbed up and over to set up top rope for

Babylon is Burning

. You could skip the anchors for this route and use

Babylon's

, but beware of rope drag. Bring a #2 to protect the [easy] moves above the anchor if you do.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 BA.