- Edit (TBD)
Description
A good, long moderate route that gets better after a grungy start. Easily identified as beginning just past a giant dihedral, that runs up the entire height of the cliff, toward the west end of Sundance Buttress.
P1- Scramble up 3rd class until your comfort level warrants a belay, Climb into the huge dihedral, and follow it past a dirty wide section, then traverse left across a slab to a belay (5.8, 160 [to 210] ft.).
P2. Climb up a ways and then head right, linking discontinuous features to belay back towards the main dihedral (5.7, 120 ft.)
P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.).
P4. Climb the right crack, then go back left up a ramp system to a belay (5.6, 120 ft.).
P5. Climb a large, left-facing corner and turn a roof on either side with 5.8 moves. Continue to a ledge (150 ft.)
P6. A short 40 feet finds the top. Carefully scramble east for a good ways to find the descent route.
Protection
Standard rack to a #4 Friend.
Routes in Sundance Buttress
- 6Eumenides5.8Trad