Topaz

The ultimate classic Headstone route and one of the best moderate lines on the hill, Topaz is a must do. The route fires straight up the middle of the Headstone in rather roughish looking rock. It begins on a sparsely bolted slab, passes a small roof, and fires straight up in two pitches of pure classic crimps, flakes, layaways, chickenheads, and a roof just below the first anchor. The first pitch is nearly 150 feet long; the second about 70 feet. To descend, rap the line using either double ropes or a 60m. A mid point rap can be found adjacent to Topaz proper and on the right (

Alienist

). The final big move over the roof at the end of the first pitch uses a #3 Friend. Brilliant climbing.

QDs and a # 3 Friend. This is a long route, so bring 15 or so draws and something for the double bolt anchor.