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Peak Mountain 3

Monkey See, Monkey Do

FA Henry Barber & Todd Eastman, 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the crack to the left of Drop, Fly or Die. It could be done in two (2) pitches, using the anchor at the top of P1 of Mr Rogers' Neighborhood, but I recommend doing it in one long pitch. It will avoid you that weird belay too far left which might not be suitable for the crux section. This climb would definitely deserve more ascents.

Start as for Mr Rogers' Neighborhood and once reestablished atop of the roof, stay right. Face climb, angling right, to get to the never ending left leaning vertical handcrack. Follow the crack, passing some good rests, until it ends, temporarily. Place gear and face climb (crux) throught this section over the bulge to get to a decent, but dirty handcrack. Finish on easing ground with handjams and good fingerlock until you get to the tiny ledge with a fixed anchor. Remember that it is not over until it's over

A 70m rope will get you down. Otherwise rappel with two (2) ropes or use the intermediate anchor at the top of Mr Rogers Neighborhood's first pitch.

Location

The route starts in Drop, Fly or Die's boulder filled trench. It shares the start with Mr Rogers' Neighborhood.

Protection

Doubles to Camalot 3, singles to Camalot 4 and Nuts. There is a fixed anchor at the top.