Minus Morgul

Generally neglected, Minus Morgul is actually one of the more splitter finger cracks at Smith. While the business is short-lived, what's there is quality climbing on decent stone.  Historically guarded by fixed gear that was mint in the early 80s, this thing recently got updated.  (the 5/16" wedge bolt was replaced with a glue in as was the fixed pin that came out by hand)P1: (5.8) Approach either via a bolted slab on the leaning block or via naturally protected climbing up the chimney to a semi-hanging stance below the splitter.P2: (5.11d) Clip a bolt off the anchor (previously a fixed pin) and crank up the splitter finger crack to a small roof and another bolt.  The anchor is encountered shortly after turning the lip and pitches one and two link logically.   Most rap from here, but purists can continue above to the top of the wall.P3: (5.9) This is the same finish as for Down Syndrome.  Climb the low angle crack staying right where the crack forks to stay on slightly harder terrain with better rock.  Belay on handsized gear and an ancient bolt (or just gear...) at the top of the wall.  Either walk/scramble off left or rap from a bolted anchor south of where you topped out.

Look for the large chasm to the right of Bad Moon Rising with an elegant splitter crack hanging above it.

Gear to 3" (the business is pretty much all medium-small)