We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Velvet Pedestal

FA D. Pearson, J. Nelson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: 5.9. Start in the blocky corner. It gets cleaner and nicer as you go up. After an intermediate chained anchor (~15-m up; do not belay here), there is a 5.9 finger-crack/layback move on a right-leaning crack that goes up to some hand jams behind a flake. At the top of the flake, and just upon reaching the steep finger crack, traverse left on the sloping ledge to a chained belay anchor.

P2: 10a. Walk left past the tree. Then traverse left on the slab past the bolt. Face climb up the minor roof to a left-pointing layback crack, and then left-trending layback crack. Good friction on the slabs, but no real footholds, so this crack is pumpy. Chained anchor on the ledge above. Except for the slabby start, this is classic Index corner climbing. It is somewhat like the 2nd pitch of Rattletale except pointing the other way.

P3: 5.8. Presently, the only way this has been ascended is by trending up and right to the large, left-facing corner with trees. It is presently uncleaned, and quite the grovel through trees, but when cleaned up will rival the super-classic second pitch. But not recommended even for fans of brush-tree groveling due to there being two loose flakes, one the size of a refrigerator door.

Face-arete variations to P2 and P3 have been cleaned off, but haven't been finished yet. Please wait on these.

Location

Starts about 50' left of the start of Bowling to Biscuits. Ascend the fixed line that you use to reach Bowling, Peanuts, and the Cringe, but trend left instead of right. Look for the large, blocky, right-facing corner. Shares the same start as And Say.

Protection

Full range from 1/4"-wide stoppers to 4" cams. Double in the 1-2" range.