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Peak Mountain 3

The Outer Edge

FA Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey, 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs nice dihedrals with an exciting and airy finish on the arete above

Not on a Weak Day

.

P1. 5.10d/11a. Boulder up and left from the base of the

Not on a Weak Day

offwidth past a bolt. Tenuously lieback past two more bolts then up a dihedral. Ascend another dihedral to a stance below the upper overhangs. Clip a bolt, step up on to the face, then move right to the arete. With hands on the arete and feet on the overhanging right face, climb the spectacular arete past two more bolts to bolted anchors (left of the

Not on a Weak Day

anchors).

Location

Climb the arete on the left side of the gash above Totem Tower just left of

Not on a Weak Day

. See the photo.

Approaches:

  1. Climb

Levitation

or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.

  1. Climb

Spare Rib

, and continue past the anchors up to the base of the route.

  1. Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the cliff then angle up and right following cairns in a trough. Scramble up behind

Totem Tower

and up to the base of the route.

Protection

Six bolts and a light rack to 2.5 inches.