South-Southwest Ridge

Expect only the finest rock, and as mentioned, the climbing is “trying to climb a vertical mud pile.”

Pitch 1:

start on the SSW side of the summit tower and look for a well-featured climb up volcanic tuff. Climb 90 feet into an alcove, 5.3.

Pitch 2

: continue straight up from the alcove in a chossy crack system; then veer right to a series of mantels. The upper mantel is the crux and is protected by a fixed pin (more of a mental placement). Continue up the ridge on hollow spires to more solid rock, 5.6 PG-13.

Pitch 3:

from the top of the 5.6 pitch, start down a class 3 ramp to a notch. Climb out of the notch, class 4, to the middle summit. The eastern summit is reached by crossing an exposed gap and then a short scramble to the summit, 180 feet, 5.0.

For the descent, use a slung boulder and solution pocket to rappel 80 feet off of the north side of the tower from the top of the second pitch.

• Single 60m rope.

• BD cams #0.75 - 6.

• 4-6 double length runners.

To sew it up, one could bring double #5. I used nothing smaller than a BD #2.

4-6 double length runners are also recommended for passive protection via horns and pillars.