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Peak Mountain 3

Twist and Crawl

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Description

Twist and Crawl is a contrived route that climbs an unnatural line. You need to seek out the hardest path to get to the 5.7 grade; there are several easier lines just a few feet away at most stances. This wandering route keeps you on the rock a bit longer as it stretches out to approximately 80' (or more) in length.

Climb up a right-tending, blocky section to a ledge (i.e., comfortable stance). Start working your way back left on low-angle, featured rock that resembles a ramp. You will soon be out of sight from your belayer as you aim for the steep, but short, face that comes into view at the clifftop (climber's left). Traverse left along the steep face, and top out at the highest point (crux option #1) or a few feet right of the short, right-facing corner (crux option #2) to make this (barely) 5.7. There are several easy bail routes to avoid the aforementioned crux options, which may result in a ledge fall if you're on the sharp end.

Location

Start in front of the big oak tree on the right end of the crag.

Protection

Trad: gear up to 2" & alpine draws to reduce drag.

A toprope is not recommended due to: HUGE swing potential, serious rope drag, & the climber is out of sight from the belayer.