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Peak Mountain 3

East Face, Right

FA FKA Dylan Oliver, Clint Brooks, 08/30/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line follows a series of cracks up the right side of the east face of Iroquois Peak. There are numerous variations possible, but this line takes the general path of least resistance up while still trying to stay direct. A rather wet and cold bivy the previous night led to a less-than-top notch performance, so cooler but harder looking options were avoided on the first known ascent:

Pitch 1:

Climb up grassy ledges to the base of the prominent, right-facing corner on the right side of the wall, 5.4, 100 feet.

Pitch 2:

Either climb up the right-facing corner (harder) or move into a vertical hand crack on the left wall, then follow cracks up the face just left of the corner. Belay at the large ledge that spans most of the wall, 5.9, 100 feet.

Pitch 3:

Move to the far right side of the ledge, and surmount a block (crux, PG-13), then follow easier cracks up the right wall hugging the arete. Belay in broken ledges above, 5.10-, 120 feet.

Pitch 4:

Scramble up easy ledges and cracks to the base of a large, right-facing corner, 5.6, 220 feet.

Pitch 5:

Climb up the right-facing corner until the crack disappears, then move right into a wide flake/squeeze chimney. There is some loose rock behind the flake, but it is avoidable. Protection can be found in cracks behind the flake, but make sure to extend the over the lip. Belay on the large ledge below the summit block, 5.10-, 100 feet.

Pitch 6:

Pick your line, and scramble up to the summit!, 5.2-5.6, 100 feet.

Descent: head down 4th Class terrain to the north until you can meet back up with

Solo Flight

, then continue down that to the base.

Location

Approach as for

Solo Flight

, and the east face will be directly in front of you. When

Solo Flight

follows ledges north towards Lone Eagle Peak, continue up towards the east face.

Protection

A standard alpine rack.


Routes in Iroquois Peak


  1. 1
    East Face, Right
    5.10-
    Alpine · Trad