- Edit (TBD)
Description
An open chimney leads to a steep face with just enough features and protection to keep it from being too spicy.
Climb up the open slot, chimney up and step left working the nice handholds. Follow weaknesses and protection options slanting slightly left until possible to go straight up to short roof (horizontal crack for gear). Pull roof, and, build belay anchor on top.
Location
In the middle of the East Face of BFD Rock is a large, open chimney. This route climbs the face just left of the chimney/wide groove.
Take two ropes and simul rappel to get off?
Possible to rappel from the anchor on "the Smell" but take care as its very steep, exposed and the anchor is a dubious, old ('87 vintage) washer stack).
Protection
Standard rack. Stoppers and small cams (double set of 00 - 2 TCU's or equivalent) useful.
No fixed gear or anchor.