- Edit (TBD)
Description
A project eyed for years, NIB follows a stunning dyke system. The route has supreme face climbing that is not to be missed.
P1 5.9: Climb R.O.U.S., a fun, dark bolted chimney.
P2 5.11: The fight begins. Start up the Dark Crystal (Seasonally wet, usually dries in early June), climb to where the original route breaks left. Instead, climb straight up, clip a bolt and pull the roof. A couple boulder moves lead to a pumpy hand traverse. Save a hand size piece of gear.
P3 5.10: Climb the short tricky arête of the Dark Crystal.
P4 5.11d: Break left and follow the obvious rail. Techy, powerful and sustained climbing makes up this all time classic pitch.
P5 5.10-: A short catwalk move brings you into a chimney like feature.
P6 5.10-: Start in the chimney and follow your way up a perfect face climbing following dykes, knobs and jugs.
P7 5.7: A short pitch brings you to the ledge.
P8 5.10+: Follow the corner until it opens up into a hand crack through a roof. Straight in jam you're way up this beauty.
P9 5.8: Top the wall out on easy climbing.
Location
This route starts on R.O.U.S., which is the dark bolted chimney uphill and left of the y intersection at the top of the Diamond Gully.
Protection
Standard Rack to 4", a 5" cam can be used for the Dark Crystal if so inclined. 70 meter rope. I don't think any nuts were placed.
Routes in The Diamond
- 3Nativity in Black5.11dTrad