Gneiss!

This route begins about 100 foot uphill from the black water streak and

Psycho Hose Beast

, approximately 50 feet right of the overhang area with

Monkey See Monkey Do

. The climbing starts up in the grey rock where a band of pegmatite crosses horizontally. Pull up to the first clip on some interesting quartz edges. After several clips, a thin series of horizontal seams delivers the crux at middle 5.11 climbing. It is a bit reachy and a bit thin, but it is a very cool series of moves in the crux. The route feels a little spacey after stepping above the crux seam, but the climbing settles back to 5.9/5.10 moves.

Its good continuity, fun moves, and excellent stone are worth the double stars. This is another fine addition from the Master of Clear Creek, Alan Nelson. The man must be crazy, he just never stops.

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs six or seven draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.