Nibbly Bits

Route takes a prominent, steep crack on west side of tower.

P1: Follow the crack system, C1 cams and large nuts for the first 70 feet to a recessed area. Thinner cracks here lead past hollow flakes and an apparently solid glued-in roof block to more C1 plug & chug. Belay at a ledge and three bolts (A2+, 170’).

P2: Easy free moves to an aid bolt and the summit. On the first ascent, this pitch was ascended and downclimbed one climber at a time. There is a single bolt on top. We used this to lower back as far as the aid bolt. Lowering any further created rope drag. At this point we untied from the rope, retrieved it from the summit bolt, tied back in, downclimbed to the belay (5.4, A0, 25’).

See approach details for the "area." This climb is on the west side.

Descent: Descend pitch 2 as described above. Rappel pitch 1, with two ropes, to the ground.

Cams: about 4 each from #1 Camalot to #5 (emphasis on hands and fist sizes). About 3 each of #6 Camalot. About 2-3 each of Aliens from Yellow upward. 1 Valley Giant.

Nuts: Wires. Set of Hexentrics. Extra (medium-ish) wires for hammering in as stopperheads.

Pitons: We used about a half-dozen hammered plcements. 1 Lost Arrow. 1 3/4” Angle. Some nuts (3-4) were tapped in as stopperheads. YMMV.

Many quickdraws and slings to alleviate rope drag. Leapfrogging and backcleaning will reduce the gear requirements.