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Peak Mountain 3

Enterprise

FA Jay Smith, Randal Grandstaff. 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Start on low angle rock heading for the bottom of the obvious corner/crack system. Do a couple of funky layback/stem moves to get into the corner. Get used to funky stems and laybacks. Continue up the corner until it is possible to step left into another crack, this is near a tree growing from the crack. Continue up this crack system to a small triangular ledge. Belay off of cams and nuts. Be sure to save something in the .75 to#1 Camalot range. 5.10-, 135ft.

Pitch 2: Climb the corner above into a short squeeze chimney with a small roof at it's top. Place gear at the top of the chimney then step back down a bit and traverse left across a fragile white face. Climb up to the left side of a larger roof, climbing around it on the left. Continue up the varnished corner above to a small ledge on the right and belay. There is a fixed nut and jammed knot here.5.10- R,70ft.

Pitch 3: Climb up and left from the belay. You will climb over a section of large blocks and flakes. at the obvious top of this section step back right into the main corner system. Climb into a short chimney, capped by a small roof. Climb out the left side of the roof using unique body positions. Climb up to a small, blocky, broken ledge on the right and belay. 5.10-, 110ft.

Pitch 4: The money pitch! Do some thin moves up off the belay, leading to another short slot. Find some good gear. Climb out the left side of the slot using powerful, corner switching laybacks. Plug in some gear and power through to more good holds. just as the crack/seam starts to arch left do a face traverse back right into the main corner. Climb up the obvious varnished ramp on the right to a 2 bolt anchor(not very good), belay. 5.11a, 50ft.

To descend make 2 or 3 rappels down and to the left of the route. Left of the route.

Location

Enterprise is the next crack system to the left of X-15.

Protection

RPs/HBs: 1 set Nuts: 1.5 sets, heavy on the middle sizes. Cams: 1 Blue Alien 2 each Green Alien to #1 Camalot. 1 each #2,#3,#4 Camalots. 2 Ropes.