Stairs of Saruman

Standing under the large roof look left and find a single bolt of a short headwall. From this bolt climb the headwall (5.10a) traversing left onto a large ledge/walk-way. Walk the ledge left 10 to 15 almost to a large maple tree where you will find a set of belay bolts. Setting up the next belay here will save from rope-drag on the next long pitch. Ascend the steep gully (5.6) to the steep buttress above. Once you've reached the last visible bolt at the foot of the steep buttress, climb left around the arete corner on thin friction (5.10b) and up the left side of the buttress to its flat top. One on the flat top follow class-4 stairs to the next headwall. Ascend the short headwall (5.8) and scramble to the top of the rock (5.6). Walk-off the north side or rappel off the top anchors for Morpheous. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 8 and topo V pages 131-132.

North side of the Lost World. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. map page 66-67, map 8 page 131, topo V page 132., and GPS coordinates in UTM's page 132.

Fixe SS 3/8 double expansion, no chains.