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MapDescription
This route ascends the left edge/arete of the
Open Book
dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.
The Turbo Flange variation takes a direct start past a bolt to join the Edge from below. Truly a dynamic line!
Location
Left of the Open Book.
Protection
Bolts
Routes in West Face - Right Side
- 24The Edge5.11aTrad