- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is one of the most overlooked excellent 5.9s in Vedauwoo. It starts with fantastic, overhanging jug hauling through a large chockstone but quickly moves into a classic Vedauwoo scrape, with sort of offwidth-chimney combination climbing as the crack flares intensely. Throughout the climb you will find jugs, excellent hand jams, flared hand jams, arm bars, chicken wings, and even fists. Go past the anchors for
Bat Guano
and
Crankenstein
, and head left of up 15 foot hand crack at the top. If you are feeling especially charitable, bring a wire brush and a trowel and remove some vegetation and lichen.
Location
This the the dihedral directly left of
Bat Gauno
and about 17 yards right of
October Light
. This climb is a great warmup to a day on
Crankenstein
,
October Light
, or
Bat Guano
and is a great approach to Flare the Well and Jim Jam.
Protection
A light Vedauwoo rack with a #3 and #4 Camalot, doubles of the hand stuff, and a few small pieces should suffice. A #0.2-sized X4 or equivalent piece is very nice for the start.
Routes in Nautilus
- 34Hurley-Fowler5.9Trad