West Side Story

I thought that of all of the routes that I have done in the Fishers (NE ridge, Phantom, Finger) this was certainly the most exciting. It does not have the same exposure as Phantom, nor the history of the finger, nor the height of Kingfisher. However, west side story is a very fun climb that deserves to be more popular. At no point does the aid become too hard for a competent C3 leader nor is the free climbing at all too death defying. One note of caution; someone someone should go up and start replacing the belay bolts, some are very old and dubious. Also, just a side note before I get to the topo, I think that this will be the next line in the fishers to go free. Very possible if the belays were improved. Now onto the business. Also, descending the route was not enjoyable. There needs to be another way to go about that. Also, another note: I will grade each pitch with a fun, zesty, uber zesty rating as opposed to the YDS. It is the fishers after all, each pitch can change a lot. I will note the harder aid pitches and free pitches though. Location: Begins on the left side of the north face of cottontail below the saddle between cottontail and echo.

P1- Fun- Begin on some slabs and work up obvious chimney system to spacious ledge.

P2- Fun- Use a few old studs to get into a squeeze chimney. Don't get stuck!

P3-Fun- Descent Aiding, a few mud moves. Follow the left side crack and then move right to a belay.

P4-Zesty/uber zesty- Good aiding and some exciting free moves. Maybe made more exciting because I was rope soloing, I don't know. Just dig the mantle. this pitch will take you to the giant bivy ledge on the saddle.

P5-Zesty-Fun aiding, but short pitch straight up arete on the west end of the saddle.

P6- Fun- Good aiding, but no particularly zesty moves, the chimney at the top is cool though.

P7- Uber Zesty- The aid pitch combined with a sweet traverse to a blind placement. The exposure is becoming more awesome

P8 Zesty/uber zesty- a free pitch with some enticing off-width. Combine this with the chimney marked Pitch 9 in the Bjornstad guide for one long pitch.

P9 Fun- Go around to the south side of the tower and climb a wide crack to a 1/4 incher to the summit.

Just a few words of caution. If you are going to rap the route, leave a rope fixed between 5 and 6 and 6 and 7 to help you get back down. A sweet route over all.

Double Set of Cams, Double Set of Stoppers including RP's, Tie Offs, Ball-nuts, tri-cams. Basic Fishers rack should suffice. If you are uncomfortable with wide cracks you might want to bring two number 5's and two number 4's but not neccessary. One of both should suffice.