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Peak Mountain 3

Regular Route

FA Chuck Martens 1969
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UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above. Scramble up left to a single bolt + small cam belay below the final pitch.P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.

Protection

Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.


Routes in Queen Victoria