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Peak Mountain 3

Mamma Gnamma

FA Chuck Calef
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The most obvious feature of this route is the wide white line of granite with a thin crack running up it in a sea of black lichen. This white line resulted from several hours of lichen scrubbing and crack cleaning. About 12 feet above ground the crack narrows to a seam and presents the first crux, tricky foot friction. Easier climbing -- cracks and flakes -- leads to steeper rock and the second crux, reaching the good holds at the top of the initial face. Above the angle eases to scrambling steepness before reaching a final short vertical headwall that easily leads to the top of the rock and the eponymous gnamma.

Location

Located on the north side of Mosaic rock about midway between the east and west ends. There is a large gully/chimney to the left of the route. Near the summit of Mosaic rock is a 15-foot-long depression formed by weathering in the granite which fills with water in wet years. This is the "gnamma", a geological term for a horizontal hueco or weathering pit. The top of Mamma Gnamma, the climb, lies a few feet due north of this gnamma. There are excellent cracks here at the cliff edge that can be used to set anchors to toprope the climb or to rappel to its base.

Protection

Tiny wires protect the seam. Elsewhere larger nuts or medium cams can be used. No bolts.