- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots of fun + thoughtful moves much on big holds. Even more if add Variation 1 from same (or nearby) top anchor (but need protection against dangerous side-swing if climber falls on that)
Up the chimney over the chockstones and/or big moves on good holds on the steep wall on the side of the chimney.
. . Variation 1 fun interesting: Start left in the big deep alcove, up a little, then hand-traverse R into chimney. (5.7+) (need protection directional)
Up the corner and crack. Finish straight over roof.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Overhanging chimney with two big chockstones about 6-8 feet right of big deep alcove.
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Protection
Protection for Trad leading: Standard rack to 2 inches. See Comments below.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Adventure Stories sector.