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Peak Mountain 3

Wayside

FA B. Wolfe / K. Lyman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up to a little pocket seat just under an obvious finger crack low on the wall. This little crack section has vegetation in it. Climb the face just left of the crack on plentiful features. As you rise on the face, there is an old, bushy cedar up to the right and an obvious, handcrack up on the left that has vegetation in spots. Trend toward the handcrack, sticking to the face, working up on some hollow flakes reaching wavy stone that you follow to traverse into the crack. The crack was solid and worthy but had some small bushes here and there. I didn't prune or clean. You can use crack and right face to minimize interference by the vegetation. After a few moves, depart from the crack, and move up on face features past a young pine. As the route eases to 5.6-ish, you are confronted with a jumble of large, blocky features. Move up to the left into a dihedral formed by one of these large, hanging blocks. On top is a comfy belay seat next to a healthy, good-sized cedar that I used for an anchor and to rappel.

I thought this route was quite nice for the grade. Also, it allows you to look over towards the top of Rebel Wall proper to assess the "walkoff" described as being used by other routes.

Location

As you make your way up to the level used to traverse over to the established Rebel Wall routes, about 25 feet before the grassy goat trail leading over to the large, parallel cracks on the left side of Rebel Wall, at about 8 feet or so above the "trail", there is a little pocket seat kind of spot formed by earth and detached stone right against the wall. There is a large, shady pine up to your left about 10-15 feet. The immediate area is loose, sandy soil and weathered talus rock, typical of the slopes leading up to Rebel Wall. Scramble up a brushy crease to the pocket seat, then at head height, there is an obvious, incipient finger crack section that has vegetation in it. Look up the rock, and you see a shaggy, old cedar high on the right and a handcrack section high up on the left. Begin on the face just left of the finger crack, aiming between these features.

Protection

A seventy meter rope will get you back to the trail level from the rappel cedar described. A sixty meter rope would get you back to the belay pocket seat at the route's start. I carried a double set of nuts and a single set of cams. There are no fixed anchors.