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Peak Mountain 3

Kicking It Old Testament

FA Daniel Trugman, Jason Halladay, August 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the east face of Juno Tower, climber's right of "Pork Swords" and "Little Viking". While it's probably not quite as good as the other two routes on the tower, "Kicking It Old Testament" still provides some intriguing movement at a more moderate grade.

For the first ascent we started by anchoring the belayer to the belay bolt on the grassy ledge below the obvious headwall. We later decided just going straight up, from ground-level, up vegetated fourth-class terrain to the base of the wall is best.

Easily turn the initial roof on its left side and make a technical traverse back right on thin holds. Find the jugs and rest up before firing the steeper but well-featured upper crux.

This route could use a bit more scrubbing, especially on the lower half of the route (I'll try to do some more next time I'm in the area). That said, the rock is pretty solid, and moves are fun, so if you can deal with a bit of lichen, then the route is worth trying.

Location

The east face of Juno Tower. The bolt line adjacent to and climber's right of "Little Viking". Approach the belay via a narrow grassy ramp.

Protection

5 bolts to chains with fixed carabiners (don't steal these!).

1 belay bolt on the starting ledge.


Routes in Juno Tower


  1. 3
    Kicking It Old Testament
    5.9
    Sport