Bear Peak, The Hard Way

There are actually 4 crags in Shanahan Canyon - East, Central, North, and South. The Central Crag is where the majority of good routes are. The worst routes are on the South Crag. This is where our route is. I'm adding it, because it can be really confusing back there, as most guidebooks only mention three crags. The start can easily be confused with The Keel if you're not paying attention.

The South Crag has been climbed before, via a 5.0 'tree' route. It is scruffy and involves a lot of scrambling on dirt, etc. I have done that route and also our route on the far left margin of the South Crag. Our route offers some redeeming options higher up, via a few tiers of short splitter cracks. It is kind of a fun, choose-your-own-adventure scenario. There are also many large clefts and caves on the Southern Crag, which are appealing in their own way.

Once on top of the crag, it is easy to bushwhack to the top of Bear Peak and go down Fern Canyon. This is easier than reversing Shanahan Canyon in my opinion, although I doubt anyone else will repeat these adventures we've had back here.

It is on the far left side of the Southern Shanahan Crag. Romp up broken slab sections and short overhangs. Navigate through dirty and piney passages until you find a cave large enough for several tents. From here, choose between several splitters, and keep wandering up. There are two tiers of splitters. Once above the last tier, easily hike off of the back side, and continue up to the summit of Bear Peak.

Typical Flatirons junk.