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Peak Mountain 3

Polarizer

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Description

Scramble up to a big ledge then jam the clean hands corner that leads to a very short wide section. Pull the bulge(crux) above the wide on cupped hands and continue on cups into another OW slot with hands in the back and edges out left to the anchor. My 70 got me down no problem.

[editor's note - the following was originally posted by Tom T under the route name 'polaris']

Climb a short squeeze chimney to a large sandy ledge. After about 20 feet of perfect wide hands in a clean corner it's time to get busy. Grunt, cuss, and struggle your way through a slightly overhanging offwidth and deposit yourself into a tight squeeze chimney. This chimney provides an excellent no-hands rest and protects with a hand crack that is just within reach. Follow the obvious crack to two solid drilled angles that had brand new [yellow] slings in March 2006.

Location

From the top of the approach trail head left. The route is approximately 100 feet left of Desert Shield.

Look for a 30 foot tall slab that leads up to an obvious right facing corner.

Protection

Mostly #2 and 3 Camalots with a couple of big pieces thrown in.

[Tom T's recommendation is Camelots: 2-#1's, 2-#2's, 4-#3's, 4-#4's (old or new, they both fit in various places)and a couple random pieces for the start. A 60m rope will barely get you to the ground with some very tame down-climbing. A stopper knot in the "belay" side would be prudent.]