- Edit (TBD)
Description
I don't usually give routes bomb ratings, but this route deserves one. You make a mantle move to the first bolt, and then head up a thin crack above and a little to the right. You can place small gear here. There is a thin crack above, but I moved left to a vegetation-filled crack and moved up to the ledge. Knowing there was no pro to be had above, I made an anchor here. You could climb to the top, but there is no pro and no anchor to be had. You can tunnel back through a thin slot which leads to the top. The route is not very fun.
Location
This is the leftmost route on the crag and is left of
Fat Head
. You can see the single bolt from the ground. From the very top, walk to the right to descend. From the bushy ledge, if you belay here, go back through a tight slot to the top, and then walk off to the right.
Protection
One bolt and a standard rack to a #2 Camalot. There are no anchors. It is hard to build an anchor on top. You can build a anchor on a small, bushy ledge before the top. I did this with a nut and a #1 and a #2 Camalot.