- Edit (TBD)
Cardiac Arrest
Description
Cardiac Arrest begins spanned out with a left hand on a low, glued sugar cube three-finger crimp block and right on a slopey ball near the bottom of the slight dihedral on the hiker's right side of the downhill face on the Small Fry Big Shake boulder. From that position, use a technical heel hook to move through a series of edges into the top of the dihedral before doing a small but committing backwards toss to the obvious blocky jug and follow more incut edges, jugs and a large foot ledge rightwards to the top of the boulder around the corner. This is a lower start to what is listed as High Cholesterol. An as-yet undone project (originally attempted (& glued?) by Eric Scully) starts on the same left hand start with the right hand on either a two-finger crimp pocket in a seam under the roof or on the crystal undercling used later as a heel hook would add one vicious (and very morpho) double digit span move out to the slopey ball, likely pushing the grade to somewhere around V13.
Location
This climbs the southeast arete (downhill, hiker's right) of the Small Fry Big Shake boulder, about 30 feet up canyon from Wildford Brimley and Brimming with Black Cats. The start holds are a glued left hand sugar cube crimp on the downhill (south) face and right on a slopey ball at the bottom of the small dihedral on the arete.
Protection
3+ pads and a blubber preferred - some jumbled rocks below the start risk harming your booty with inadequate paddage.
Routes in Small Fry Big Shake
- 3Cardiac ArrestV10Bouldering