The Peoples United Front of Judea

Desert Rock II tells of the Cameron Burns route that ascends the northwest edge and then goes through the window and climbs the crack on the south face. This route climbs the middle of the north face in the Dewey Bridge band, then goes straight up the over hanging crack above the window on the north face (this is the mirror side of the south face crack ascended by Burns et all).

P1- 5.9 A2 or perhaps 5.11 - find the start in front of a small pine tree. Climb about 15 feet up horrible rock (5.9?) then move right, passing a bolt, to a short chimney. From here go straight up a crack that is the closest thing Dewey Bridge can get to a splitter. Just below the ledge you can traverse right for a few easy, but sketchy, free moves to the anchor. Belay from a boulder in the window.

This pitch is very dusty and soft... very Fisher. No, worse than that... very Tusher.

P2 C1 or perhaps 5.12 - Go straight up on finger size gear that eventually opens to hands. The crack is very overhanging and on excellent rock. It would be a great free pitch, but I had no belayer. I'm guessing mid 5.12.

One big rap gets you back down to your stuff.

The route is pretty much sun-free making it a good outing on a hot day.

Hi Eve!

The middle of the North Face of the Hashishabrum Tower.

I used an assortment of cams from .5 to #5 (friends). I'd suggest 2 of each with perhaps triples on hand and finger sizes. I placed a couple of small angles, but I don't think you will need them now that the bolt is there. Two sixties will get you down.