The Ivory Tower

An amazing route with incredible position, and exposure. Hats off to Sam for envisioning the route and to Chris for the FFA.

The crux pitch gets a fair bit of sun, yet the belay is positioned in the shade, and exposed to the wind. I'd recommend picking a day with low winds, and starting early or late to catch the crux pitch before it's had a chance to heat up, or after it's gone into the shade (mid-afternoon in the fall). Regardless, bring warm clothes for belaying the crux.

I know there was some online drama about this route's validity on curmudgeonclimbing.com (aka supertopo), and poor Sam took some very undeserved flak for this wonderful route, and his efforts.

I think anyone that has a problem with this route should go climb it. I'm sure they'll quickly be impressed, and realize that it is not an overbolted, thoughtless clip-up. In fact, it's a beautiful line, established in good taste, and does have some obligatory 5.12 climbing. The bolts are well camouflaged, and thoughtfully placed. Regardless, there was plenty of precedent for routes with many bolts on Castleton long before this route was established; see Stardust Cowboy, Sacred Ground, etc.

The route has had at least five ascents. (Those are only the ones I know about, so I suspect there are more.) Despite some opinions to the contrary, I think it was a fantastic gift from Sam to the community, and I imagine it's popularity will only increase as word gets out about the route's high quality.

I've given French grades to confuse any curmudgeons.

P1: Easy climbing up a broken corner leads to some gear protected 6c lay backing in a corner, before an obvious traverse to the arete on the right. Tricky 7b/7b+ climbing up the arete past a few bolts gains a bolted belay. This is a tough pitch to onsight, particularly if there is no chalk. 7b/7b+ 33 meters.

P2: Spectacular climbing up the wild and exposed arete, with a crux low and high. 8a 32 meters.

P3: Cool bit of bouldery arete climbing off the belay leads to some fun and varied climbing up a leaning splitter. Belay on a comfortable ledge. 7b 20 meters.

P4: Two short bouldery stretches lead to the summit of the Arrow. 7a+ 25 meters.

Rap down the south face.

The route starts 40 feet left of the North Chimney in a broken corner.

Single set from .3C4 to #3C4

Optional #5C4 on 5.7 terrain on Pitch 1.

16 draws

There is an excellent topo, with pitch by pitch gear beta here:

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