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Peak Mountain 3

The Sword-That-Was-Broken

FA Bernard, Katie & Claire GIllett, 2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun climb and a great intro to slab work for a beginner.

On the left margin of Scout Slab start up and left in an angling crack and move up the slab past two bolts on interesting slab moves to a small ledge. Continue up into a right-facing dihedral with good gear placements. Two anchor chains are at the top of the dihedral at a good stance.

The guidebook suggests staying on the right side of the bolt line, there are good features here - it's also interesting though on the left of the bolts and maybe a number grade harder.

There is a fourth class ramp from which you could access the chains.

Eds. this is a combination of submissions.

The 2 bolt anchor with chains is tucked in just over the lip at the top. The chains are thin, so plan on a final run up the slab to clean the anchor. You can TR

Ring of Power

, 5.4 or 5.6 off the same anchors.

Note, small rattlesnakes with buzzing rattles may reside below this route.

The approach to the left via a slot and a high step onto a slab will require a spot for the kids.

Protection

Two quickdraws for the bolts on the slab a light rack up to a #2 Camalot protect the upper dihedral. Two anchor chains at the top.