- Edit (TBD)
Description
Great climbing in an ultra shaded area (until three or so mid-summer). Good variety from a fist roof and hands pitches down to some fingers near the top. Super fun to do during the summer. It should be noted that 2 ropes are required to rappel. We did it with 2 70m ropes and had enough to spare that 2 60m may be fine (the book says 2 x 60m should work). It would be smart to bring some extra webbing as both rap anchors are either off of a tree (lowest) or just two bolts with webbing slung between (upper anchor).
P1. Climb the buttress beginning by pulling a square roof using fist sized jams. Good fists for the first 15 feet and then easy climbing on flakes up the left leaning crack. Belay off of trees.
P2. Move the belay up through the oaks towards the hourglass shaped chimney system. Climb the left side of the system up an awesome overhanging handcrack. Super fun last 20 feet to the belay ledge. Make a belay here or link pitch 2 and three into one long 60m pitch.
P3. Switch to the right side of the hourglass and start up that crack system. Use multiple cracks to get up with a wide variety of pro but mostly in the .75 - 2 range. As you begin to exit the crack system look up and to the left for the chains. They are invisible from below and they seemed to pop out of nowhere when I didn't want to continue up the crack.
Descent: Double rope rappel off of the chains to the top of the buttress. There is currently an anchor built off a tree to get off the buttress in a single rope rap.
Location
Come up the cragmont trail and turn right towards the second tunnel window at the junction. Look for the large square buttress (100' tall or so) that is visible from the road about 200 yards from the junction. On this buttress look for a square shaped roof and that is the start of the climb.
Protection
Doubles .3-3 and a single 4. Optional triples in .75-2