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Peak Mountain 3

Arete Route

FA B. Faulkenburg, July 14, 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the line of bolts on the arete crowded in between the

Buttress Climb

and

Z Elephant Boy

. The route seems contrived and way too close to the

Buttress Climb

which overlaps for the first few bolts. It is either a contrived variation or a contrived attempt to establish a hard route right on the arete even as the easier holds just left make you trend that way. Bolt 1 is in an awkward position, and a stickclip is recommended. I'm not sure which anchors -

Buttress Climb

or

Z Elephant Boy

were intended as the finish. Both are runout, and both incur rope drag for belaying the second. Speaking of the second, this line puts your second in a crappy situation if they fall.

Protection

5 bolts - installed with mixed metal (plated steel wedge bolts, SS hangers) so it's just a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.