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Creekafixion
Description
Sooo, you know that route
Rosy Crucifixion
.... Well, the CCC has got its own version now!
This is one of the most unique pitches I've climbed in CCC, guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Link the first 2 pitches of
Solid Gold
to the large belay ledge.
Climb 50 feet of the 3rd pitch of
SG
. Bust right to start up
Playin' Hooky
. Belay on the ledge with the intermediate rap station in the middle of the
PH
slab.
Creekafixion P1 5.11, 80 feet.
The Money Pitch! Start from the rap station in the middle of the
PH
slab. Climb up the slab for 4-5 bolts then angle up and left to 2 bolts leading up to the giant roof on the left side of the slab. Stem the dihederal and begin tip-toeing out over the massive roof. A sequence of underclings, crimps and tenuous smearing past 3 more bolts will deposit you at a 2 bolt belay. Wild!
DON'T use a Guide or Reverso in auto-block mode. If your second falls, you will have a very hard time unlocking the device.
From here, you can either rap back to the midway belay on
Playin' Hooky
, or top out via two different 5.11 options.
It is possible to link both pitches but not recomended since you will not be able to hear or see your partner during the crux traverse.
P2 5.11-, 60 feet.
The original finish was to step right off the belay, mantle on to a sloping ledge, and follow a crumbly corner feature to the top, but with the recent addition of
Golden Hammer
, you now can take that routes fourth pitch to the top for a much more classic finish in the 11+ range.
Descent: Several rap options exist. The best option is from the anchor on top of
Spun Gold
to the
Playin' Hooky
anchor in the middle of the slab, then down Solid gold from there. Or top out completely and walk over to the
Solid Gold
raps, or 4th class scramble down to the raps for
Playin' Hooky
.
Location
Top right side of Creekside. In between
Spun Gold
and
Playin' Hooky
.
Protection
Bolts. 10 draws and 2 runners should do.
Routes in Creek Side
- 29Creekafixion5.11Sport