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Peak Mountain 3

Ducks in Bondage

FA Bill Robbins Skeeter Malinski, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The highlight of the crag! Slab climbing is

way

more fun when you have an obvious point of security to shoot for. Like Dark of the Moon, there is constant motivation to connect the dots between a

ll those c

hickenheads,

with the extra bonus of a few flakes and edges.

Pad up the initial 30' of very low angle 5.0 slab, shooting for the initial crack in the middle/left of the face. Place a piece, then mantle and slidepull your way up the heavily featured face. Slab geeks may find themselves smiling and grinning their way past the many chickenheads, flakes, edges  interspersed with large, dishy smears here and there.

There is an anchor station mid-way and after there, it's

progressively

easier

yet

progressively

runout

climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. I think there may be one or two pins on the second half but the reduction in grade helped the run out feel reasonable.

Keep moving and don't think about it!

Location

Starts in the middle left of the face, where a crack meets the lower angled slab.

Protection

The full LCC quiver of slung chickeheads, cams, a few bolts and old pitons. 2 rappels with a 70m rope get you back to the ground.