- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start to the right of the arete and climb up passing a few horizontal cracks. They take great gear. Continue to reach a stance on the arete, just below the bolt. Clip the bolt and make a few thin moves to reach the horizontal crack at the top (crux). Doing the moves above the bolt feels a little committing, however the hardest part is just setting off from the good stance. Trust the friction!
The best descent option is to walk along the cliff to the right and lower off the new shuts above Terror of Tiny Tom. You can also bushwack straight back across the top of the block and lower from the chain anchors above Terror of Tiny Tim.
Location
From the approach trail, head right and continue straight through the corridor. After passing a campfire ring on your left, this is the arete at the far end of the right wall.
Protection
Gear less than 1" (small cams or tri cams). 1 bolt. There is a 2 bolt anchor on the top, but as of 8/2010, these are still the older bolts, use caution.