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Peak Mountain 3

Black Wall GT Ledge (Variation)

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Description

This is a fun variation that consists of a "girdle traverse" of the upper Black Wall (all 12' of it). Climb the beginning of Double Chimney to the rest ledge. Position your feet in the horizontal crack, and tiptoe across the shallow crack as you pull left-facing crimps. This short traverse consists of several balancy moves. Make a final reach for the arete (crux), and straddle the outside corner to the top. This route is more finesse than strength.

Location

Start by climbing the lower chimney on the right side of Black Wall. The  horizontal, traverse crack is  positioned slightly above the rest ledge.

Protection

A single bolt and gear for TR anchor. Position rope nearer to the outside corner (climber's left).