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Peak Mountain 3

Rope Burn

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Description

Physically demanding with multiple styles of climbing from pulling overhangs to slab required.  Also somewhat dirty with loose rock on P1.

P1 (5.7+ G) Bouldery start.  Climb a blocky but overhung left rising ramp into a mini-cave.  Do some awkward twisting under a roof to move up a vertical crack.  Side pulls and face holds move you up the crack (crux - took a Metolius 2/3 offset) then left onto the face for a couple of thin moves to get over a bulge.  Easier climbing gets you the the first belay at a big birch tree but beware of loose rock and dirty.  There is a rap station at this ledge off a pine on climber's right.

P2 (5.5 G) Move up a slabby right facing wall.  Your route will be determined by where you can find gear, bring long runners.  The crux involves turning a corner onto the face to run out about 15' at the top.  Again beware of loose rock on the topout.

The large birch at the top of P2 is rotted, use the pine instead.

Location

About 15' climber's left of the intersection directly below the big ramp.

Protection

Trad full range from Camalot #3 to Metolius #2. No fixed anchors. Tree rap on P2. Rap station on P1.