- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1 (5.7, 60ft) - Run up to the first bolt, which is about 25 feet off the ground on the right-facing side of the corner just before it gets steep. As it gets steeper there is a second bolt in the steep, blocky section. As the pitch flattens out the easy crack could take a 4 or 5 cam or you can just run it out to the anchor, which is just to the right of a very obvious tree.
P2 (5.7+, 70ft) - Slab climbing above the tree and past a newer sapling that can be slung as quick protection. A smaller cam can be placed too before the first bolt, which is about 20ft above the belay ledge. Five or six draws to the top, which is on a huge dirty platform below the beginning of an obvious right-facing corner. This is some of my favorite moderate slab climbing at The Shield.
At the top of P2 is where this route starts to get a
little dirty
. Mind your feet here if there are people climbing anything climber's right of you. Also, your belayer might appreciate it.
P3 (5.6, 50ft) - Follow the crack and right-facing dirty corner up and onto some 4th class terrain to an obvious pine wrapped with slings for rappelling. It looks like a lot of it is flaky and barely in there, though its almost all solid...
[
UPDATE
: a significant amount of rock fell from the P3 corner in the Spring of 2019, ripping the "obvious tree" atop the first pitch from the wall. P3 is still climbable at ~5.6, but different!
Rapping from the top of P2 is highly suggested
. Everything else seems unchanged, except a pile of debris at the bottom of the route.]
P2 and P3 can easily be combined with a 60m.
Rap to the ground with twin 60s or to the top of P1 with one. 50m WON'T get you there. Then rap P1 with one 60m or w/e.
Location
A major right-facing corner to the left of Drill & Repetition that leads to a blocky overhanging section. There is a bolt on the right-facing wall about 25 feet up just below the steeper section. This is the first bolt.
Protection
8 quickdraws, single rack of cams to #3.
P1 = Two bolts and opportunity for larger active gear. Two bolt anchor at top.
P2 = Five or six bolts. Two bolt anchor at top.
P3 = Only takes gear. Fat tree for anchor.