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Peak Mountain 3

Beaster Sunday

FA Garhart and Garman Spring 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

2 pitch adventure route that summits a prominent pillar in the central part of the wall.

Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft) Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear. Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.

Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft) From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole. Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux). Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views. Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.

Location

Couple minutes left of where the new approach trail meets the cliff.

Protection

Pitch 1) We used #9 and #12 Valley Giants for the squeeze but Big bros would also work. Singles from #3-#6 camalot.

Pitch 2) Singles from C3's to wide hands. Long slings.

2 single rope raps.