Idiot's Delight

Starts on slab above the right end of Lower Castle at the top of whatever 2nd pitch you do to get there.

Well worth seeking out for the climbing up to Loggers ledge.

The crux is the perplexing move around the big roof.

One of the great things about this route is that the climbing above the crux roof is really good. All the other lower wall climbs have 1 good pitch and then low 5th class loose dirty climbing.

Approach is best by Amy Carter. Above that bolted anchor there is another bolted anchor, a maple and a blocky ledge, on the right edge you can go up the arrete and then cross a slab ending on a ledge with 2) rusty 1/4" bolts. A little run-out with some small hard to find cam spots. Or at the point where you go up the arrete, drop down and find a RFC that goes to the same ledge ( Idiots Journey)

From the ledge, climb slab above with cracks to the roof crack. Following the corner above you will come to a ring piton, go left to gain more cracks around a prow near the top out.

Standard rack, maybe double up on .5- #3. There is a ring piton on the upper half. Long slings for wandering nature and rope drag. Good cracks at top for anchor, or maple tree.