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Peak Mountain 3

Putterman's Pinkies

FA Luke Laeser, Cameron Burns, Mel Macdonnell, Ann Robertson 10/30/94
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Putterman's Pinkies is a great little dihedral route put up by desert rats Luke Laeser and Cam Burns in the mid to late 90's.

Make a few easy face/mantle moves to access the crack about 10 feet up. Launch up through super sticky fingers which quickly widen to rattly fingers, then tight hands. The route surprisingly ends at a small ledge, just as the crack goes locker hands. It looked like this could probably continue with another 20 feet or so of great climbing.

The crack is ultra sharp/crisp. It probably hasn't seen many ascents. This is about as good as Entrada gets. Bjornstadt gives it 10a ***** and Kelley gives it 10c ***.

Location

Follow the wash South until you can make your way up left on some easy talus to the base of a big, sweet looking pink dihedral. This will be above and to the right of Putterman's Outhouse, maybe a couple hundred feet.

** Note: High Over Moab generally describes this as being on Neighbor of Putterman, which is one formation West of House of Putterman. This isn't correct, it is actually approximately 2 formations East of House of Putterman and the driving approach is significantly different.

Protection

Doubles of 0.3 camalots to #1 camalots, with extra in the 0.5 and 0.75 (maybe 3 or 4 each).

The anchor consists of a good 1/2" bolt, an ~OK 3/8" bolt, and an old friend. When I climbed the route, one of the old 3/8" bolts had fallen out of it's hole and was dangling in tat. bring spare webbing and/or cord to spruce up the anchor if needed.


Routes in Putterman's Outhouse Ampitheatre


  1. 1
    Putterman's Pinkies
    5.10c
    Trad