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Peak Mountain 3

Red Zinger

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Description

This route ascends finger cracks to hand cracks up a corner and past some loose rock to a ledge (5.8), all of which is pretty straightforward. There is an anchor far back on this ledge if you decide that this is enough for you.

If not, step back left into a funky OW/lieback where you will be glad to have a #5 & #6 C4, which from the ground it doesn't look like you do. Part of it gets amazingly tricky with how your legs get forced out. Wear long sleeves on both of your arms for this part if you don't want rock rash. Be ready for 4' of intense struggle.

After this, an optional but recommended #4 C4 protects an undercling before you launch off into an ever-funkier, ever-thinning crack that gives this route a 5.9+ (teehee) rating. The crack is flaring & irregular off-fingers to tips and beyond, with some face features to 'help out' - but the rock weeps sand and is soft. I broke off some decent sized edges with my feet as I kicked and slipped to recovery, so you should have fewer teasers in the way now. The crack pinches down to #0.2 cams for the last 6 ft or so in soft rock where the only viable moves are steep face climbing on friable rock. Cam failure here could result in a potential ledge hit or two, and I did see the rock crush and umbrella my #0.2s under causal testing before I shoved them in deeper.

The best part about the route is that the anchors on top are good. ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Location

The route ascends the rightmost left-facing corner on the SE-facing wall at the South parking to Park Avenue.

Protection

1-3x#0.2 (depending on fear factor at the end), 1x#0.3, 2-3x#0.5, 2-3x#0.75, 2x#1, 1x#3-6, at least 4 single length slings (extend slings on the wide gear, maybe doubles there).