Void Where Prohibited

This route, also known as the "Left Void" (Avoid where Prohibited in the latest guide), is either the hardest 5.8 in the Gunks, or the easiest-looking 5.11. When you walk up to it, it looks deceivingly easy - 5.8 at worst! - but that folly is soon revealed. The crux is the obvious open book, and is well-protected; the climbing above is runout 5.9 to the rappel tree.

The Voids are the two 5.11s on the front side of the Void block, almost at the end of the Nears.

Standard Gunks rack; be sure to have a selection of very small nuts.