- Edit (TBD)
Description
Best route climbed. If only it were longer. This route has the pleasure of skipping most of the bad rock found along the rest of the crag and easy access to the perfect hands splitter presents itself just to the left of the crack. Great #2 (#2 friends are great) placements are found until the pod. A loose looking, but mostly solid block is in the crack as it opens up to big hands. #3 and #4 are useful through the wide pod. #4 is best placement I made at the crag.
Pull above the pod into an alcove with some suspect rock. Exit right via a solid flake/block with the help of good holds along the arete. Slightly sandy footholds, but goes at a moderate grade. Somewhat tricky gear before pulling around the flake. A purple totem fit the flare well. An awesome finish above slide lake.
Crux will come at the bottom for those lacking in crack skills, with another one at the airy top move. I skipped trying to build a gear anchor and found a tree 20-30 feet uphill to sling and bring my follower up.
Location
Walk to east from the other climbs. Locate the obvious hands splitter on a west-southwest facing chunk of wall.
Protection
0.3-#4, doubles in hand size