Original Route

This route starts just to the right of "

The Put In

" on a fractured flake. Climb 5.9 friction past the two historic bolts (don't even think of falling or weighting these beauties!). Head left and finish up "

The Put In

", or traverse right across the slab until you can follow right-arching cracks up to the ledge near the top of "

Old Man River

". For the full old-time trad experience, traverse the ledge to the right, squeeze behind the block (the infamous "Snead Slot", head up the ramp, pull the overhang (at "Slacker"), traverse right on the slab above, then head up the left-facing dihedral capped by a roof to the top of the wall. This can be done in three long pitches, and leaves you with a nasty hike down off the top, or three interesting rappels (ring anchors) and a pitch or two of ledge traversing to get back down.

Standard rack, two historic 1/4" bolts, occasional obscure fixed pins, and whatever modern sport bolts you chose to clip.